Tuesday, June 30

How to Care for your Mail Order Plants



Purchasing your plants from an online nursery, or via mail order is a very convenient way of gardening! Here's a few important things to help you succesfully grow your new plants.

On arrival
All our plants are sent via express post, to ensure the fastest delivery possible. It is always our aim to have plants in transport as little as possible, and it is very important to unpack your plants as soon as possible when your plants arrive. We soak all plants in Seaweed solution in our nursery before sending to reduce transport stress.
Unpack your plants carefully, and soak them immediately in seaweed solution. (We do not recommend soaking for Dracaena draco, cacti and succulents. Rather just dip them in the seaweed, and plant immediately)

Seaweed solution has many uses as outlined below:
- Seaweed stimulates root development
- Seaweed reduces transplant stress
- Seaweed enhances flowering & fruiting
- Seaweed increases resistance to heat, drought, frost, pests & disease
Due to the fact that Seaweed Solution is not a nitrogen based fertiliser, it is safe to use on all plants. Soak your plants for a few hours or overnight. We do however recommend you do NOT soak succulents, cycads and caudex plants for any longer than 30 minutes. We have various seaweed solutions, including Seasol available for purchase.

Choosing a pot
Once your plants have had a good soak, it is time to choose an appropriate pot size. Choose a pot as small as possible. It is a common misperception to plant plants in a huge pot, thinking plants will grow quicker because they have a bigger pot. The truth in fact is totally the opposite. Plants need oxygen in the soil, and big pots make it harder for soil to dry out. Without drying out, soil becomes logged and oxygen is destroyed. Roots will not develop properly and the plant will stay too wet, being a major cause of root rot, and possibly plant death.
Small seedlings, with a small root system should go in a 50mm tube pot. Small seedlings with a big root system or big taproot, such as most cycads and some palms (common for palms like Triangle Palms, Bismarck Palms, Dypsis Fakey, Latan Palms) could not possible fit into 50mm tubes. These types of plants are potted into tubes called ‘native tubes’ which are very tall, but still only 70mm wide. These native tubes are the pot we use the most in our nursery, they are very handy for a lot of palms and cycads. We can help you get some of these tubes if needed.
Another option would be to use a pot called a ‘SuperSaver’, 4” diameter, but much taller than a standard 4” pot. Bigger plants, or plants with big root systems will need a bigger pot; choose a pot which will fit roots comfortably without squashing, and without excess room. Some plants, such as succulents or cacti, would be good in a terracotta pot. Terracotta is porous (unless it is treated with a waterproofing compound) and will allow these plants to dry out quicker and easier.

Soils and potting mix
Always choose a well draining mix. For potted plants, the easiest (and often the best) soils are premium potting mixes, available from hardware stores, nurseries & garden centres. Read the back of the bag to ensure it is suitable for your plant, and check whether the potting mix incorporates fertilisers and soil improvers, or whether you will need to add these yourself.
Specific potting mixes, such as ‘cacti and succulent mix’, ‘orchid mix’, or ‘Azalea mix’ are the easiest to use, and these potting mixes ensure you will get the right mix for your plant. It is always a good idea to add some soil improver, such as ‘BioBrew Soil’, which encourages soil activity and insect numbers (such as earthworms), increasing available nutrients & oxygen for the roots.
Things like Seaweed Solution, Dynamic Lifter, Organic Xtra etc. are also excellent to mix in with the soil. Be sure to read the packaging for the right amount of solution or fertiliser.
Some plants, such as Azalea, Gardenia & Camellia, prefer a more acidic soil than other plants. These plants will need a specific potting mix, or you will need to adjust the Ph of the potting mix to suit these plants. Sweet soils can kill these plants, or will impair their growth.

Watering In
It is vital to water your plants in well. If you do none of the other things, please do this one, it is THE most important thing about potted plants. Without proper watering in, the soil or potting mix will have air pockets, causing roots to die back, or die completely. Water in well, then leave to dry out to let the soil create oxygen for the roots, then water regularly to suit the plant.

Planting in the ground
If you are planting straight into the ground, be sure to prepare the planting site well. Dig your hole much bigger than the plant’s root system, and dig through lots of organic matter such as Blood & Bone, Manure, some people even use dog food. If you are lucky enough to have a compost pile, this would be the time to use some! Please do check the Ph of your compost – last time I checked ours the Ph was 3, which is not beneficial at all to any plant! If it is fairly neutral, or slightly acidic, it would be great to dig some through the soil at the bottom of the hole, and the soil which is used for back-filling the hole.
We always soak the hole with water first, to make water penetration easier once the plant is planted. It would depend on your soil too however, as the soil around our nursery is very dry and rocky. It is very important for us to dig a huge hole, and fill it with water first. Plants would have a hard time getting their roots through the soil, at least for a start. If your soil is more of a clay soil though, you would more so build up your soil to form a mound, and you would plant your plants on top of the mound to improve drainage. Clay can be very heavy soil, and retains water a lot, meaning it would get too cloggy for a lot of plants. It's important to determine what type of soil you have before purchasing your plants, and before planting them. Press soil on firmly without being rough, and water in well once again.
Fertilise around the base of the plant, but do keep it at least 10cm away from the base to avoid trunk rot. This is not vital for all plants, but without listing every plant, it's best to be safe than sorry. Mulching is always good in the conditions we’re dealing with in Australia, but it is absolutely necessary in areas of drought, areas on water restrictions, or areas without much natural rainfall. It will keep the soil moist, and directs water to the roots without run off. In hot parts of the country, mulching is necessary to keep soil & roots cool, in cold areas it is used to keep roots warm. It works as a natural insulator, and while the mulch composts, it provides nutrients for the plant as well. Please note that if you would like to fertilise your plants, try and get the fertiliser in under the mulch. It will work much better that way.

Watering
Watering is one of the things most people worry about. If you follow our instructions on pot size above, your plants will be a lot more forgiving than they used to be. All plants prefer a soil which is well draining and free flowing, and pots of the right size will allow the soil to do so. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top inch of soil is dry, in summer this may be every day, in winter this may be no more than once every 2 weeks.
Plants in pots will need to be watered more frequently than plants in the garden. In the nursery, our plants in 50mm tubes are water daily in summer, every 2 days in winter. Due to the pots being so small, overwatering is not an issue. Plants dry out quickly, and quickly establish root systems whilst having adequate watering applied. All 50mm tubes are however under 30% to 50% shade cloth in our nursery, meaning they won't need watering as much as if they were in full sun. We always recommend keeping your plants in small pots out of full, harsh sun until you pot them into at least 100mm pots.
Plants in standard 100mm pots are watered every 2-3 days in summer, once every 4-5 days in winter. Plants in bigger pots generally fend for themselves, but during dry times they get additional watering. Some plants, such as bamboo, some palms and things like Azalea, Monstera, Orchids or Medinilla’s, appreciate being fairly moist at all times, and will grow much quicker when watered regularly. Once they are ready to go into the ground however, most are able to completely look after themselves with just natural rainfall.
When you water, water well. Most plants do not appreciate always being wet and receiving little amounts of water often. It’s best to water well, leave the plant to dry out a bit, and water well again. Some plants that like high humidity are different, they prefer being moist most of the time, and they will also benefit from regular misting to increase humidity.
Many helpful products are available to increase water retention and stop water runoff, such as water crystals and soil wetter.

Position
It is very important to read as much information on the plant you purchased as you can, to learn about what they like and dislike. All plants have different requirements, like people really.
When you receive your plants, you will need to slowly adjust them to the position where they are to grow eventually. If your palm is to grow in full sun, you cannot place it in full sun immediately, especially not with seedlings. Seedlings are best grown in a shady, brightly lit position until they have established themselves in their new pot. Once they have, you can slowly adjust them to full sun. Take them out into the sun for an hour or so a day, and slowly increase until they are completely sun hardy.
Obviously, some plants are not suited to growing in full sun, and these can be established in their pots and planted out immediately afterwards. You will need to think carefully about the position for your plant, make sure you know exactly how big the plant can grow, whether roots are invasive or not, whether it needs shade or full sun, does it need acidic soil, how much water does it need etc.
As you may have recently seen on ‘Better Homes and Gardens’, someone planted a nice little pot plant along a fence, and before they knew it the ‘little pot plant’ was 8m tall and going strong. This was a Ficus, which is known to be a great house plant, but can reach up to 50m tall in the garden! This is just an example, but it really pays to look into it, as removing a tree of that size can cost a lot, and you are left with an empty spot in the garden which may take years to fill.
We do have some plants in our nursery (under 'indoor plants') that are great as indoor plants. Place these plants in a brightly lit position, under a Skylight or close to a window is great.
Check whether the plant can handle air conditioning if your house is air conditioned, and keep it away from draughty winds. Air can be very dry inside, so keep an eye out the plant, water it when needed, and mist it regularly if it likes humidity. You will need to wipe the foliage free of dust every week or so, with a damp cloth. I take my house plants outside regularly for a little TLC, they get a hose off and an application with liquid fertiliser every two weeks. Liquid fertiliser are great for indoor plants, it’s easy to apply and feeds through foliage as well as soil.
If you would like further information please contact us, or take a look at Cactus Island Nurseries Mail Order Plants.

Very special Double-headed Dwarf Coconut

Here's a double headed coconut baby, grown by Roger Goebel up in North Queensland. I could only find information on 1 other double header, in Tonga, and a three-header in Africa. The three-headed palm in Africa is for sale for 1 million dollars - better start saving! Usually, multi headed palms have their branching occur due to insect attacks etc., but this one? Let's hope we will see it develop into a beautiful palm, it may yet become a tourist attraction!

Monday, June 29

Soil Improvers, Fertilisers & Fertilising your Plants

Fertilising your plants is necessary for good, healthy growth, but with so many fertilisers on the market it can be pretty confusing to know which to choose. Below I have outlined the essential nutrients plants need to grow, with an overview on organic fertilisers, soil improvers, compost, mulch, manures & chemical fertilisers.

Essential plant nutrients
Every plant needs a number of essential nutrients to grow. Essential nutrients are nutrients that are required to enable a plant to complete their life cycle.
There are 13 essential nutrients, and each has its own critical function. Essential nutrients are divided into macronutrients (plants require a large amount) and micronutrients (plants require in smaller amounts). There are 3 others very important for plant growth, Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen, but these are not considered nutrients.
Macronutrients:
(N) Nitrogen (necessary for plant protein & phosphorus uptake)
(K) Potassium (Increases drought tolerance, transports iron, essential for protein formation, growth & flowering)
(P) Phosphorus (important for plant growth & seed and flower formation, essential for root development, disease resistance & cold tolerance)
(Ca) Calcium (regulates transport of nutrients within the plant & strengthens)
(Mg) Magnesium (essential for photosynthesis & activates plant enzymes needed for growth)
(S) Sulphur (Improves root growth & fruiting, assists growth, increases resistance to cold weather, promotes enzymes & vitamins, essential for protein production)
Micronutrients
(Fe) Iron (Necessary for photo-synthesis)
(Cu) Copper (important for photosynthesis & plant reproduction, helps protein uptake)
(Mn) Manganese (essential for carbohydrate–breakdown and metabolism)
(Zn) Zinc (Transforms carbohydrates, helps with consumption of sugars, regulates plant growth) (B) Boron (Needed for sugar transport & cell division, regulates nutrients, essential for seed & fruit)
(Mo) Molybdenum (helps to make nitrogen available)
(Cl) Chlorine (helps plant metabolism)
Other nutrients: Silicon, cobalt, Vanadium, Selenium, Sodium, Nickel, Aluminium

Most fertilisers are based on an NPK structure (Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium), and include secondary plant nutrients (Calcium, Sulphur, Magnesium) & trace elements. With ‘trace elements’ the micronutrients such as Iron and Copper are meant. On fertiliser packaging, you will find all the percentages of nutrients available in the fertiliser.
It is especially important to look into these plant nutrients if your plants are showing signs of deficiencies or disease.

Organic fertilisers
Organic fertilisers are made from organic materials such as blood, bone, mushroom compost, manures etc. They are derived from plant and animal material. Organic fertilisers are increasing in popularity due to their effectiveness, relative loss cost and for health reasons. These fertilisers are generally very environmentally friendly, and break down slowly so they do not burn plants.
Organic fertilisers do not just feed plants; they are beneficial for soils as well due to increased soil life & insect activity (just have a sniff – you’ll understand why insects are attracted!). Organic fertilisers are available in solid form (such as Organic Xtra, Dynamic Lifter & Gardenia Food) and Liquid Form. Organic fertilisers are generally safe to use on all plants, including natives.
Disadvantages of organic fertilisers also exist. They tend to be very smelly and messy to use. Most organic fertilisers have a pungent smell of manure and some can be overwhelming. Nutrient levels are generally low, and the growth rate achieved by using organic fertilisers does not nearly compare with growth rates on chemical fertilisers.
Large quantities need to be used to feed the plant enough nutrients to grow, and effectiveness highly depends on the micro biotic organisms which break down the organic matter. During cold weather for example, or when soil is too hot or too dry, micro biotic activity is absent, meaning fertiliser is not released. This may be exactly the time when plants need the fertiliser most.

Other beneficial organic products include:
Seaweed Solution
Many seaweed solutions are available, and all have similar ingredients and benefits. Seaweed solution stimulates root development, promotes healthy growth in all plants, reduces transplant stress, enhances flowering & fruiting and increases resistance to heat, drought, frost, pests & disease. Seaweed solution is not a nitrogen based fertiliser, and contains virtually no nitrogen or phosphorus. It is therefore safe to use on all plants including natives and acid-loving plants. Seaweed solution is great for soaking new plants before potting up, and for fortnightly foliar and soil applications on all your plants, in pots & gardens. Seaweed is excellent for use on seedlings. Use some in your compost piles too!

Soil improvers
Soil improvers such as ‘BioBrew Soil’ improve the soil’s natural organic cycle and are rich in beneficial soil biology and plant food. They often contain things like fish emulsions, seaweed, zinc, copper, humic and fulvic acid. Soil improvers are designed to promote insects and soil organisms which help increase the soil’s water holding capacity, increase the conversion of organic matter to active humus, and strengthen plants. Results are improved crops, better fruiting & flowering, increased resistance to disease, and increased frost & drought tolerance.

Manure
Manure has been a widely used fertiliser and soil conditioner for a long time. Various manures are available with different NPK ratings. Approximate ratings are listed below.
Cow manure N 0.57 P 0.23 K 0.62
Horse manure N 0.7 P 0.25 K 0.77
Pig N 0.49 P 0.34 K 0.47
Sheep N 1.44 P 0.5 K 1.21
Rabbit N 2.4 P 1.4 K 0.6
Chicken N 1 P 0.8 K 0.39
Ensure manures are always well rotted before usage!

Other beneficial things are mulch (directs water to the roots of the plant, keeps roots cool in hot weather, keeps roots warm in cold weather, breaks down to provide organic nutrient), compost (always check the Ph of your compost, it could be very low, or high, depending on what items have been added to the compost pile. Ensure a good variety of things is added to the pile including leaves, grass clippings, veggie scraps, newspaper, manure etc. Keep the pile moist to ensure it keeps composting, and regularly feed your compost pile with a Soil Improver such as BioBrew, Blood & Bone and Dynamic Lifter. Mix through regularly) & Potash (Australian soil is naturally low in potassium. Potash is necessary for fruit, flower & veggie growth.)

Chemical fertilisers
Chemical fertilisers or made of inorganic materials. Chemical fertilisers do not depend on micro biotic organisms, and therefore tend to be more reliable and precise. Chemical fertilisers are very affordable due to the fact that very small amounts are needed to feed the plant with the nutrients it needs. These fertilisers generally do not smell and are very easy to use. Chemical fertilisers are available in solid and liquid form.

Liquid fertilisers
Liquid fertilisers mix with water, and are usually applied with a watering can or a spray bottle. They generally feed both foliage & soil, and last around 2 weeks. Liquid fertilisers are very easy to apply and are generally suitable for most plants. Some plants, like Adenium, prefer liquid fertilisers over solids. Many people prefer using liquid fertilisers as it is generally safer to use and less likely to burn plants. It is also easily washed out by flushing the soil repeatedly, if there is evidence of over fertilising. Repeated watering will rinse all traces out of the soil. Fertilisers such as Miracle-Gro & Nitrosol start working within minutes, and both feed leaves & soil. Miracle-Gro also contains a wetting agent which helps the fertiliser stick the foliage, making it a more effective foliar feed, and also aids in the penetration of the soil to ensure nutrients and water reach down to the roots. Soluble fertilisers are very gentle and can be used at any required strength. They are excellent for cacti and succulents at about 1/8 of the usual strength, and foliage plants will greatly benefit from the foliar feed.
Controlled-release fertilisers
Controlled-release fertilisers are generally a long-term fertilising solution. Some can last up to 24 months, which makes it a very easy, convenient way of fertilising. These fertilisers generally come in pellet form, little balls coated in plastic-like material. Controlled release fertiliser often consists of quick-release nitrogen pellets, and slow-release pellets, ensuring the fertiliser starts working immediately, and keeps working over time. Controlled release fertilisers are very cost effective, generally only a teaspoon is needed in a 4” pot (depending on the plant), and nutrients are released slowly. Controlled release fertilisers release their nutrients in tune with the weather; during hot days for example these fertilisers will release more nutrients than cold dark days, providing more nutrients when the plants need it more.

Slow-release fertilisers

Generally the same as controlled-release fertilisers, but slow-release fertilisers do not work in tune with the environment. Nutrients are released at a steady rate, whether it is sunny or not.

For further information please contact Cactus Island Nursery. We have a range of fertilisers and soil improvers for sale via mail order, just contact us for more details.

Licuala naumanii - Fan Palm or PNG Fan Palm

Some information regarding Licuala naumanii (Fan Palm, PNG Fan Palm)

This Licuala is rarely seen in cultivation and can be hard to get hold off. It is as beautiful as both the Ruffled Fan Palm (Licuala grandis) and the Australian Fan Palm (Licuala ramsayi), and has similar circular, huge bright green leaves. Licuala naumanii tends to have divided foliage, being the main difference with the Ruffled Fan Palm.
This palm is only small, growing up to around 1.5m tall, and is best suited to warm, tropical conditions. Licuala’s are generally fairly slow growing, but Licuala naumanii is known to be the fastest of the Licuala’s, when grown under the appropriate conditions.
I have found Licuala’s to be very hungry palms (or 'thristy' would be a more correct term), due to their huge green foliage, and I highly recommend using a good quality NPK fertiliser (look for high N (Nitrogen)) to keep them looking shiny and green, and kick start growth. Licuala naumanii is best grown in shady, humid positions (this palm is an understory palm, meaning it always has overhead cover from taller trees) with plenty of water.
If you have further information regarding this palm, please leave a comment!
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Coconut care - Some hints on establishing your palms

A care guide to Mail Order Coconuts - how to look after your palms on arrival
When you receive your Coconuts, they have been in the post for a couple of days so it will pay to get them out of the packaging and into a tub of half strength mix of liquid fertilizer or at least water, in the shade, as quickly as possible. The nuts were growing in filtered sunlight so will handle full sun when settled in but need at least 50% sun for as much of the day as possible.
The nuts are the most advanced that packaging or State requirements allow. They will gain nutritional benefit from attachment to the nut for about 18months and even longer in sub optimal conditions. Coconuts have a fibrous root system. Each root will develop with equal importance both feeding the plant and anchoring it. No tap root develops. The sprouted nuts have roots but in most cases most of the roots are removed for improved health and quarantine reasons. Damaged roots are less useful than new undamaged ones.
In tropical locations the sprouted nut could be planted at its site or potted. In cooler locations it is recommended to plant the nut in a large container of 10 to100 litres for at least a couple of years.

Before sending, the nut has been watered, root pruned and cleaned. New roots are already growing through the nuts husk. In any case newly transplanted nuts will suffer some set back which will be evident in the next two fronds being less vigorous than current fronds. It is important to nurse these new plants to reduce this set back as much as possible.
Coconut palms prefer:
· Warm soil – above 20oC
· Warm air – between 20 and 300C
· High humidity –above 70
· High light levels especially when temperatures are warm
· Free draining soil – no water ponding on surface and good pot drainage
· Regular watering with potable or near potable quality water
· Surface mulching with wood chip or stone
· No weed competition especially grassy weeds
· Freedom of pests like ants (ants farm mealy bug and scale insects) and leaf eating insects
· Adequate levels of fertilizer, particularly nitrogen and trace elements
By meeting these requirements your plants should thrive.
Further notes on growing coconuts are available by email from Roger Goebel.
Current July 2009, Roger Goebel.

Saturday, June 27

Malaysian Orchid (Medinilla Magnifica) Plant


Medinilla Magnifica 01, originally uploaded by chanicy2000.

One of the most spectacular flowering plants available, with exotic pink flower trusses reaching up to 50cm in length, which hang down from the main plant. Leaves are very large, up to 30cm long, glossy dark green and oval.
Medinilla magnifica is an epiphyte (like staghorns, orchids & Bromeliads), and is often found growing in trees in native habitat, where they reach a height of 2m. In cultivation, it will more likely be close to around 1m. Fantastic plant for tropical gardens, or stunning as potted specimen in conservatories down south, or indoors!
Water regularly when compost dries out slightly. Malaysian Orchids benefit from liquid fertilizing every 2-3 weeks, and is best grown in rich, organic, well draining soil. Add lots of peat, vermiculite, humus and mulch to your soil mix. Read & view more at http://cactusisland.com.au/

Lipstick Palm / Red Sealing Wax Palm (Cyrtostachys renda)

Small, Medium & Large Lipstick Palms are now available at National Tropical Plants.  


 
Cyrtostachys renda, originally uploaded by tanetahi.
It wouldn't be right to start this blog with any other plant than the Lipstick Palm. This truly is our favourite!
The Lipstick palm (or Red Sealing Wax Palm) is a stunning feather palm with a brilliantly, almost unbelievably vivid red trunk & crown shaft, found in lowland coastal swamps in SE Asia.
(It is also known as 'Cyrtostachys lakka', which has now been included under 'Cyrtostachys renda'.)
It’s a medium sized, to about 6m, clumping palm. One of the most spectacular and colourful tropical palms and extremely popular as garden and landscaping plant.
Cyrtotachys renda is very cold sensitive and should not be grown in the garden outside the tropics, but I still recommend you give it a go if you aren't in the tropics. Find a nice warm place inside your home, or in a conservatory or glass house. Take it outside in summer & love it like it deserves. It makes for a wonderful and spectacular potted specimen for the house and patio (on warm days). It should not be exposed to temperatures under aprox 10 degrees, preferable above 20 degrees.
In the tropics it’s very easy to grow, provided it gets lots of water and sun/overhead light. Soil should be rich, moist and loamy, and plants should be fed monthly with a tropical plant or palm fertilizer.
Definitely worth the effort and a must for every palm lover/collector! Red Sealing Wax Palm recommendations: I recommend you soak them in some seaweed solution on arrival, for up to a couple of hours right before potting up. Water in with some Fungicide like Fongarid & leave to dry out for a couple of days, then water regularly.
Keep in high humidity in bright light, but no full sun. Add some slow release fertiliser for tropical plants or palms, and keep up regular foliar sprays with seaweed solution.

Small, Medium & Large Lipstick Palms are now available at National Tropical Plants.