Sunday the 2nd of August will be national Tree Day. Last year over 312000 people helped plant out trees, surely to be beat this year. National Tree Day is Australia’s biggest community tree-planting event and it is held at sites throughout the country. National Tree Day aims to inspire, educate and recruit Australians to actively care for our unique land and create future generations of commited environmental custodians. To find a planting site near you, visit the National Tree Day website.
Friday, July 31
Cycas revoluta (Sago Palm) Twin
Here’s what we found today – a Sago Palm Twin! Two plants shot out of the one seed…
Wednesday, July 15
Weed Alert - Miconia calvescens
Have you seen Miconia on or around your property?
Miconia is one of the world's most invasive plants, with the potential to take over Australia's tropical and sub-tropical rainforests. The plant has been banned for sale since 1997, but still exists along the east coast of Australia. Locating and destroying these plants is vital to the protection of our tropical plants and animals!
Miconia is a small tree that grows up to 15m high. Leaves are large, up to 
70cm long, with a vibrant purple underside. Three prominent veins run along the length of each leaf. Flowers are white to pink, 4-5mm wide and arranged in panicles. Individual flowers are 4-5mm wide. Fruits are 6mm in diameter and turn purple/black when ripe.
70cm long, with a vibrant purple underside. Three prominent veins run along the length of each leaf. Flowers are white to pink, 4-5mm wide and arranged in panicles. Individual flowers are 4-5mm wide. Fruits are 6mm in diameter and turn purple/black when ripe. Fruit eating birds feed on the plant's berries, spreading them into surrounding forests and gardens. If you thing you have seen miconia call the Exotic Plant Pest Hotline on 1800084881, or report a weed online at www.weeds.org.au
Friday, July 10
The Queensland Home Garden Expo has started!
Qld Home Garden Expo - Celebrating 25 years of gardening magic.
This expo has just started today at the Nambour Showgrounds. It will run tomorrow and Sunday as well. 25000 visitors are expected to attend and see the gardening displays, the gardens, and the latests in containers, tools, fertilisers etc.
Plants are also being offered for sale, aproximately 40000 plants will be for sale every day! If you are visiting, you will be treated to a display of more than 360 exhibitors, including nurseries, garden centres, manufacturers of garden tools, fertilisers, accessories, and many more. Gates open at 8am every morning, and close at 5pm on saturday and sunday, 4pm on sunday. Adult entry costs is $14, or 3 days for $30. For more information visit the Queensland Home and Garden Expo 2009 website.
This expo has just started today at the Nambour Showgrounds. It will run tomorrow and Sunday as well. 25000 visitors are expected to attend and see the gardening displays, the gardens, and the latests in containers, tools, fertilisers etc.
Plants are also being offered for sale, aproximately 40000 plants will be for sale every day! If you are visiting, you will be treated to a display of more than 360 exhibitors, including nurseries, garden centres, manufacturers of garden tools, fertilisers, accessories, and many more. Gates open at 8am every morning, and close at 5pm on saturday and sunday, 4pm on sunday. Adult entry costs is $14, or 3 days for $30. For more information visit the Queensland Home and Garden Expo 2009 website.
Online & Mail Order Nursery - Behind the Scenes
Have you ever thought about owning your own online mail order nursery? Funny really, I never did, until I was already up to my neck into it.... Like many other plant people out there, I started out on eBay, selling some left over plants from my cacti & succulent collection. As I sold more and more, I started to: 1. wear myself out due to the fact that I was trying to work both a full time job, and a full time nursery, and 2. run out of cacti & succulents! My name is El, I'm the 
owner of Cactus Island Nursery, together with my husband Dan. Our nursery is fairly small (a two-person operation), and we focus on growing plants that no one else grows. (here's where the problem starts!) People ask me what it's like to run an online nursery, and well, I would describe it as a 'juggle'.... Juggling time around computers, plants, family, admin.... It's a juggle in the best form of juggle though, I absolutely love what I do. Hopefully this will give you some insight into my world, the world of running an online and mail order nursery.
owner of Cactus Island Nursery, together with my husband Dan. Our nursery is fairly small (a two-person operation), and we focus on growing plants that no one else grows. (here's where the problem starts!) People ask me what it's like to run an online nursery, and well, I would describe it as a 'juggle'.... Juggling time around computers, plants, family, admin.... It's a juggle in the best form of juggle though, I absolutely love what I do. Hopefully this will give you some insight into my world, the world of running an online and mail order nursery.Wednesday 15.07.09
Dan & I investigated new payment integration option for our online nursery website (http://www.cactusisland.com.au/), and unfortunately this took all day. We found ourselves in limbo between unhelpful banks (I can't help naming ANZ & Commonwealth Bank), uninteresting websites & unreasonably high fees and charges! Ten cups of coffees later, we decided PayPal will remain our payment gateway provider on the website. Even though it takes customers from our site to PayPal's site to checkout which can be confusing, this does allow us to accept all major payment options including PayPal, bank deposit, and credit cards. At the moment, there are still a couple of glitches in the online nursery website, but we hope to have these fixed soon.
Saturday 11.07.09
Our website is brand new, and all our products need to be uploaded into the new inventory. I tackled the Hibiscus this morning, even though they aren't quite ready yet. We have a lot of stuff growing at the moment, which isn't quite ready yet, but will be by the time spring starts. We sold off some tractor implements, and the phone rang all day with prospect buyers. We had great hopes of using these implements around our block, but the ground is rock hard, literally. We have instead decided to go for the heavy artillery, with the purchase of a 1940's Case Loader. She's huge, old, and not going - Dan has rebuilt the motor and we hope to have her going soon. I also printed all the invoices, ready for packing tomorrow. We usually package the plants on Saturday, and box them on Sunday, but in winter thing's tend to be quiet - we can do it in 1 day. Our new website also incorporates our new logo, which I included in a brand new invoice lay out.
Friday, 10.07.09
For simplicity's sake, and structure in my working days, I will now strictly do 'outside' in the mornings and 'inside' after lunch. Outside time is my favourite time. There's a
lways something to do, something to see. Today, I found this magnificient little frog under an old polystyrene box. I checked the Frogs of Australia website (http://frogs.org.au/), and believe this to be 'Litoria nasuta' or Rocket Frog, but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I'm planning on sharing more of our nursery companions with you here shortly. Being an online nursery definitely has its advantages. Not having nursery visitors keeps the nursery, and the area around it, very quiet and peaceful, and we are seeing the most wonderful animals around us. Yesterday I was observed by a Kookaburra all morning whilst potting up my Madagascar Jasmine (Stephanotis floribunda). He must have been checking up on me! I start every morning with a healthy dose of emails, the most interesting one this morning being from Gaye, who runs the Queensland Gardening Pages (http://www.calyx.com.au/). We have been discussing the possibility of growing edible palms in backyards around Australia. Visit the edible palms page. I also re-potted our Cycas media. These cycads have been sitting in the same pot for the last 3 years, and I'm afraid to see they have been badly neglected. Before re-potting they took up around 6m2 in space.... now there's only 50 plants left, taking up less than 1m2! I took cuttings of our Mandevilla Red Riding Hood, using a new method with Esi-Root this time. Esi-Root worked well with Mandevilla Pink Petite, and I have high hopes for Red Riding Hood.
For simplicity's sake, and structure in my working days, I will now strictly do 'outside' in the mornings and 'inside' after lunch. Outside time is my favourite time. There's a
lways something to do, something to see. Today, I found this magnificient little frog under an old polystyrene box. I checked the Frogs of Australia website (http://frogs.org.au/), and believe this to be 'Litoria nasuta' or Rocket Frog, but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I'm planning on sharing more of our nursery companions with you here shortly. Being an online nursery definitely has its advantages. Not having nursery visitors keeps the nursery, and the area around it, very quiet and peaceful, and we are seeing the most wonderful animals around us. Yesterday I was observed by a Kookaburra all morning whilst potting up my Madagascar Jasmine (Stephanotis floribunda). He must have been checking up on me! I start every morning with a healthy dose of emails, the most interesting one this morning being from Gaye, who runs the Queensland Gardening Pages (http://www.calyx.com.au/). We have been discussing the possibility of growing edible palms in backyards around Australia. Visit the edible palms page. I also re-potted our Cycas media. These cycads have been sitting in the same pot for the last 3 years, and I'm afraid to see they have been badly neglected. Before re-potting they took up around 6m2 in space.... now there's only 50 plants left, taking up less than 1m2! I took cuttings of our Mandevilla Red Riding Hood, using a new method with Esi-Root this time. Esi-Root worked well with Mandevilla Pink Petite, and I have high hopes for Red Riding Hood. Thursday, July 9
Growing Hibiscus - How to Grow Hibiscus Plants
Hibiscus flowers - stunning bloomsTropical Hibiscus trees have beautiful, huge flowers. Many hybrids of Hibiscus (rosa-sinensis) have been developed, making blooms available in almost any colour imaginable. Hibiscus are tropical plants and grow well in frost free areas of Australia.
Growing Hibiscus & Hibiscus Care
Hibiscus are sun lovers, they need to be grown in full sun. They are very drought hardy once established, but may require some additional watering during dry weather periods. Hibiscus plants detest having wet feet, and you will need to ensure the soil is well draining. If you soil does not drain freely, add some sand to your soil, or add some perlite or vermiculite. This may not be as easy if you want to grow your Hibiscus plant in the ground. A solution would be to plant the Hibiscus on a mound to enable easy water draining. Mulching is important for most plants in Australia, to keep moisture in the soil, and keep plant roots cool in hot weather. Be careful however to keep mulch away from the stem to avoid rot. Check the soil and adjust if necessary to be of neutral Ph.
Pruning Hibiscus - How to Prune your Plant
All Hibiscus can be pruned to shape. Pruning Hibiscus plants is a good idea, to encourage blooms and grow stronger, better flowering plants. Usually, pruning is done just before the new season's growth, here in Australia usually in August or September. Prune your Hibiscus plant back about 1/3 all over. Prune again lightly in February. Remember to prune after some new growth (on the branch), or a healthy node, so you don't get 'dead' branches, or branch ends. Make sure you don't prune while there is still a possibility of frost!
Hibiscus fertiliser - Fertilising your Hibiscus
Hibiscus are tropical plants and grow well in the tropics and subtropics of Australia. Fertilise your Hibiscus with 'Hibiscus Food', the fertiliser made by Brunnings, which is recommended by the Hibiscus Society of Queensland. Fertilise around 1 month before you prune your plants, so they are fully ready to take off in spring! Fertilising your Hibiscus will encourage healthy vibrant blooms, and it will also keep them well fed. Like many other tropical plants, Hibiscus are gross feeders, and they require a complete, balanced plant food to enhance blooms, intensify the colour of Hibiscus and promote overall healthy growth. If you would rather use a different hibiscus fertiliser, look for one with an analysis close to: N 15% P 2.2% K 16.6%. Other elements crucial to healthy hibiscus growth:+ Sulphur, Magnesium, Boron, Iron, Zinc & Molybdenum
Hibiscus Pests & Diseases
There are a few pests and diseases to look out for on Hibiscus. Pests and diseases vary from area to area, and I have supplied the most commonly seen pests and diseases below, the ones that most of will have seen on their Hibiscus plants one time or another. Not all insects are bad however! Think before you kill - sometimes killing all insects will be worse than just leaving the pests. Nature is balanced, and most of the time good will outnumber bad. If you do need to lend nature a hand, try and use organic and nature-friendly methods as much as possible.
Good Bugs
- Spiders
- Lady Bugs
- Praying Mantis
- Assassin Bug
- Wasps
Bad Bugs
- Mealy Bugs (Wooly white little insects. Pest Oil works well for these, or use soapy water)
- Scales (come in different colours, round insects with a hard 'shell'. These can be easily wiped off & squashed. If you're on to it, you should be able to get rid of them that way, but if not, pest oil is very effective.)
- Green Vegetable Bug (I see these bugs a lot around the place. They are around 3cm long and bright green with a shell. They love leafy stuff and can't stay away from things like Golden Cane Palms. Although I have not had these on my Hibiscus plants as of yet, I can imagine Hibiscus would be something they would go for. Best thing once again is to squash every single one you come across. If you can't keep up, or the pest has gotten out of control, you may need to look at a bug spray)
- Harlequin Bug (Same as the Green Vegetable Bug, but red)
- Grasshoppers (These bugs eat a LOT for their size! Squash them as quick as you can)
- Any Catepillar (Eats as much as the grasshopper and can do serious damage)
- Black Hibiscus Beetle
- Aphids
- Pollen Scarab
- White Fly
- Cotton Stainer Bug
- Spider Mites (this is the most common problem on indoor Hibiscus plants. Leaves will show light spots, and spider webs are formed around the leaf bases and around the stem. You can blast them off with water, but often you will need something a bit more severe. I have found Neem Oil effective, but only for a short amount of time. Spider mites need quick action from your part, plants go downhill very quickly under a big spider mite infection.
- Rutherglen Bug
Hibiscus uses - How to make use of the flowers & plants
(Wikipedia used as reference)
- Hibiscus is a primary ingredient in many herbal teas
- Hibiscus cannabinus is used in making paper.
- Hibiscus sabdariffa (Roselle) is used as a vegetable, herbal tea and jam.
- Roselle (H. sabdariffa) petals are used to make tea called 'Karkade'
- Hibiscus is used as an offering to Goddess Kali (Goddess of Time and Change) and Lord Ganesha (Lord of Obstacles in Hindu)
- Medical uses in Chinese herbology
- Medical uses in Ayurveda medicine
- Hibiscus flowers can be used as shoe polish
- Fibers are used for grass skirts
- Hair care: growth stimulant, anti-daindruff, conditioner
- Dried Hibiscus is a delicacy in Mexico
- Flowers can be worn behind the ear by women for beauty
- Hibiscus is the national symbol of South Korea and Malaysia
Hibiscus propagation - How to propagate your plants
Hibiscus is usually propagated from seed, or from cuttings. If you have a wonderful hybrid, with the most amazing blooms that you wish to propagate, you will need to take cuttings. Seeds are never guaranteed to turn into the same colour flower as the mother plant, as it can have charactaristics of past generations.
Tuesday, July 7
Golden Cane Palm (Dypsis lutescens) - Golden Green
The Golden Cane Palm is one of the most popular and attractive of all palms. It is very easy to grow, and especially attractive due to its bamboo look. Golden Canes are clustering palms, with up to a dozen ringed, bamboo-like golden coloured trunks.Golden Canes are very adaptable plants, and they are best grown in full sun, in a well draining but moist position.
Golden Cane Palms are drought tolerant, but not frost tolerant. Foliage is evergreen, of fine texture and yellow-green in colour. The root system is non-invasive and can provide some good shade around the pool or home.
These Palms are excellent for screening, they are fast growing, and are very bushy, creating a screen quickly and efficiently. Golden Canes can be pruned to shape & size to form a tidy, dense hedge.
Golden Cane Palms are suitable for container growing, as an indoor palm or out on the patio. Just make sure you use well draining potting mix, fertilise regurly, and prepare to buy a large tub as it gets bigger.
It will reach a height of around 4 meters in the ground. If you are planting these palms in the ground, prepare a spot with fairly rich soil, and water moderately during dry periods. Very easy to grow and great for landscaping!
To purchase mail order Golden Cane Palm plants, please consider visiting Cactus Island Online Nursery
Monday, July 6
Dwarf Coconut Palms - Backyard Dwarves
Solomon varieties of dwarf coconuts open up possibilities for the backyarder
A recent global survey found 780 described coconut varieties. Many have been developed specifically for certain commercially important traits. Tall varieties represent the majority in commercial production due to a higher copra yield and longer productive lifespan, but the merits of the dwarf varieties are well worth considering, especially for the backyard or small scale production.
There were eight dwarf varieties selected from the Solomon Islands and imported by the Townsville council in the early 1980’s. The original plan was to replace some of the tall palms along The Strand with these impressive compact varieties for foreshore stability and tourism appeal. I won’t elaborate on the perceived danger issue but it is said “coconuts have eyes of their own and have long served mankind”.
The original Solomon collection has been well maintained and one of the originals, the Malay Golden Dwarf found its way to the far north, with thanks to the old Kamerunga research station in Cairns. There are also a number of the shorter palms, known as village dwarfs, growing around the Cape York Peninsula. They are very compact palms – small enough to grow in containers and bear numerous, small, golden orange fruits, with thin husks and great flavour. Others are the Red Spicata Dwarf, which has a stalk-less fruit attached directly to the main stem of the bunch, a Malay Yellow dwarf which is also very thin husked with medium sized light flavoured fruits, and a Giant Green dwarf, which has a full size crown but extremely compact trunk.
In general, dwarf coconuts are self pollinating, precocious, high yielding, easy to harvest, and tolerant of diseases such as ‘Lethal Yellowing’ and poor soils. Many will fruit within four years in a moist tropical climate and reach full output by 6 years, often with coconuts touching the ground. The productive life is considerably less for the dwarf palm varieties which have life spans of approximately 40-60 years, as opposed to 80-120 years for talls. Dwarfs reach heights from 5m to 12m, depending on variety, although at a much slower pace than talls, as generally all the palm proportions are smaller.
Plantation production of dwarf coconuts has been most successful in Brazil where the market is for drinking coconuts rather than oil production. It is estimated three billion coconuts are consumed by Brazilians annually and there is a growing demand for tetra-pak coco juice export products from USA and European markets. They are the wealthiest coconut farmers in the world and their product is easily harvested at only 8 months maturity, for peak sugar and electrolyte concentration, and at 12-14 months being fully mature and oil ready.
A coconut palm produces a new inflorescence every month, beginning the long ‘pregnancy’ for each fruit. Some dwarf coconuts can bear up to 250 fruits per year, though 160 is common with good conditions. When a coconut palm self pollinates; a recessive gene is able to produce very high sugar content. This is why dwarf coconuts tend to be sweeter. Regardless of the conditions of pollination, in all coconuts, sugar levels peak around day 220. This is considered the ideal time to harvest a bunch of coconuts for drinking. Once picked, a fresh semi-mature coconut will remain sterile inside and continue to deposit flesh for up to 8 weeks, if not bruised or allowed to dry out.
Another major product from the dwarf coconut is toddy, or coconut sugar, extracted directly from the unopened inflorescence. Coco sugar has an extremely low glycemic index, with a GI of 35. The end of the inflorescence is cut with a very sharp blade, morning and evening, removing a minimum of crystallized sap, which encourages and maintains the sap flow. Usually a litre per day can be collected and boiled down for sugar, or drunk directly as toddy or later, arak. Fresh, it is considered an elixir in many island villages, and this has been attributed to very high vitamin C content (263% of daily requirement). This is considered especially valuable among elderly villagers, hence the practice of breeding very compact dwarf varieties and planting them at the base of composting pits to ensure easy reach and strong output in ones latter years.
The wisdom of planting dwarf coconuts below ground level is manyfold. There is a tendency for a short palm to become top heavy and not withstand strong winds as well as a more flexible tall palm. Lowering the root ball in a pit which can collect water and hold plenty of mulch gives the best results as well as nice low coconuts for more years to come and not to forget, tsunami proofing.
If you would like to help spread this collection for our future, or perhaps it’s time to replace some of your tall coconuts with shorties, please be in touch.
Dwarf Coconut Sales – Cactus Island Nursery
Written by Paul Richardson - COCOTAP® (The nifty little tool to open & drink your coconuts easily)
Article originally published in the Australian Rare Fruit Review 2008
A recent global survey found 780 described coconut varieties. Many have been developed specifically for certain commercially important traits. Tall varieties represent the majority in commercial production due to a higher copra yield and longer productive lifespan, but the merits of the dwarf varieties are well worth considering, especially for the backyard or small scale production.
There were eight dwarf varieties selected from the Solomon Islands and imported by the Townsville council in the early 1980’s. The original plan was to replace some of the tall palms along The Strand with these impressive compact varieties for foreshore stability and tourism appeal. I won’t elaborate on the perceived danger issue but it is said “coconuts have eyes of their own and have long served mankind”.
The original Solomon collection has been well maintained and one of the originals, the Malay Golden Dwarf found its way to the far north, with thanks to the old Kamerunga research station in Cairns. There are also a number of the shorter palms, known as village dwarfs, growing around the Cape York Peninsula. They are very compact palms – small enough to grow in containers and bear numerous, small, golden orange fruits, with thin husks and great flavour. Others are the Red Spicata Dwarf, which has a stalk-less fruit attached directly to the main stem of the bunch, a Malay Yellow dwarf which is also very thin husked with medium sized light flavoured fruits, and a Giant Green dwarf, which has a full size crown but extremely compact trunk.
In general, dwarf coconuts are self pollinating, precocious, high yielding, easy to harvest, and tolerant of diseases such as ‘Lethal Yellowing’ and poor soils. Many will fruit within four years in a moist tropical climate and reach full output by 6 years, often with coconuts touching the ground. The productive life is considerably less for the dwarf palm varieties which have life spans of approximately 40-60 years, as opposed to 80-120 years for talls. Dwarfs reach heights from 5m to 12m, depending on variety, although at a much slower pace than talls, as generally all the palm proportions are smaller.
Plantation production of dwarf coconuts has been most successful in Brazil where the market is for drinking coconuts rather than oil production. It is estimated three billion coconuts are consumed by Brazilians annually and there is a growing demand for tetra-pak coco juice export products from USA and European markets. They are the wealthiest coconut farmers in the world and their product is easily harvested at only 8 months maturity, for peak sugar and electrolyte concentration, and at 12-14 months being fully mature and oil ready.
A coconut palm produces a new inflorescence every month, beginning the long ‘pregnancy’ for each fruit. Some dwarf coconuts can bear up to 250 fruits per year, though 160 is common with good conditions. When a coconut palm self pollinates; a recessive gene is able to produce very high sugar content. This is why dwarf coconuts tend to be sweeter. Regardless of the conditions of pollination, in all coconuts, sugar levels peak around day 220. This is considered the ideal time to harvest a bunch of coconuts for drinking. Once picked, a fresh semi-mature coconut will remain sterile inside and continue to deposit flesh for up to 8 weeks, if not bruised or allowed to dry out.
Another major product from the dwarf coconut is toddy, or coconut sugar, extracted directly from the unopened inflorescence. Coco sugar has an extremely low glycemic index, with a GI of 35. The end of the inflorescence is cut with a very sharp blade, morning and evening, removing a minimum of crystallized sap, which encourages and maintains the sap flow. Usually a litre per day can be collected and boiled down for sugar, or drunk directly as toddy or later, arak. Fresh, it is considered an elixir in many island villages, and this has been attributed to very high vitamin C content (263% of daily requirement). This is considered especially valuable among elderly villagers, hence the practice of breeding very compact dwarf varieties and planting them at the base of composting pits to ensure easy reach and strong output in ones latter years.
The wisdom of planting dwarf coconuts below ground level is manyfold. There is a tendency for a short palm to become top heavy and not withstand strong winds as well as a more flexible tall palm. Lowering the root ball in a pit which can collect water and hold plenty of mulch gives the best results as well as nice low coconuts for more years to come and not to forget, tsunami proofing.
If you would like to help spread this collection for our future, or perhaps it’s time to replace some of your tall coconuts with shorties, please be in touch.
Dwarf Coconut Sales – Cactus Island Nursery
Written by Paul Richardson - COCOTAP® (The nifty little tool to open & drink your coconuts easily)
Article originally published in the Australian Rare Fruit Review 2008
Saturday, July 4
Cordyline Propagation - How to Propagate Your Cordylines
Ever wondered about propagating your Cordylines? Unsure how to go about it?
3. Prepare to cut! Take your cutting as close to the main stem as possible, without touching the main stem. A sharp, clean cut is what we're aiming for here!
4. Clean your cutting. Remove the bulk of the foliage, but leave 1 or 2 nice, healthy leaves. The amount of leaves you leave depends on the size of the cutting. You always want to select a cutting with at least a little bit of 'hardwood' on the bottom. The hardwood is the brown barky part of the cutting, at the end where I cut it. The longer the barky part, the easier it will be to root.
5. To wound or not to wound. Some people like 'wounding' the cutting, as I've shown in the picture here. All it involves is to remove a slice of the bark, at the base of the cutting. This can increase the amount of surface the cutting can grow roots from. Roots are only grown from a very small part of the stem, which is the outer ring just under the bark. Cutting the cutting on an angle is also beneficial, for the same reasons. I tend to use the 'angle' method more so than the 'slicing' method. It takes less time, and is easier to do!
7. Planting time! Plant your cutting into a small pot, in well draining soil. I use 50mm tube pots for anything that will fit into it, even Frangipani cuttings. Small pots dry out nice and quick, avoiding rot. Rot is one of the main causes of rooting failure. For the same reason, ensure you are using potting mix which drains freely. Add vermiculite, perlite or sand to your mix if it is not well draining. If you aren't sure, buy some cacti & succulent mix from a nursery, garden centre or hardware. Plant the cutting halfway into the pot. You don't want it moving or wobbling, so fill the pot up with soil, and compress it firmly. Now water it in well to get rid of air bubbles & leave it to be.
8. The mission continues... After a few weeks (anywhere between 2 and 4, sometimes longer) your cutting will start forming roots, which will eventually show through the bottom of the pot. When this happens, it's time to repot. Repot into 4" pots (don't go much bigger than that, you want to increase the size of the pot slowly to establish good root systems, and avoid problems due to waterlogged soil), but take care to CUT the tube pot away from the roots. Don't just pull them out, as they may still be a little bit fragile.
Well, here's how I propagate mine, step by step.
- 1. Select your Cordyline. I've chosen to propagate my Cordyline Pink Tip. I have choses this specific plant, as it is a branching plant. A branching Cordyline is a plant with multiple branches, or stems. Selecting a branching plant will make it easier to strike your cuttings, at least until you're fully confident & succesful. Eventually, you can take cutting by chopping the whole plant in half, it's as easy as that... but for starters, choose a branch so you can't go wrong.
See the little black arrow in the picture? That's the cutting I'm going to take. I'm going to leave the biggest part of the plant alone, so that, if anything goes wrong with my cutting, I still have my beautiful mother plant.
- 2. Sterilise your cutting tool. Whether it be scissors, secateurs or a knife, cleanliness is the key. We don't want diseases, rot or any other nasties getting into the freshly cut end of your cutting, OR your mother plant! Always take all precaution to look after your mother plant. You'll always have cuttings to give a go that way!
3. Prepare to cut! Take your cutting as close to the main stem as possible, without touching the main stem. A sharp, clean cut is what we're aiming for here! 
4. Clean your cutting. Remove the bulk of the foliage, but leave 1 or 2 nice, healthy leaves. The amount of leaves you leave depends on the size of the cutting. You always want to select a cutting with at least a little bit of 'hardwood' on the bottom. The hardwood is the brown barky part of the cutting, at the end where I cut it. The longer the barky part, the easier it will be to root. 
5. To wound or not to wound. Some people like 'wounding' the cutting, as I've shown in the picture here. All it involves is to remove a slice of the bark, at the base of the cutting. This can increase the amount of surface the cutting can grow roots from. Roots are only grown from a very small part of the stem, which is the outer ring just under the bark. Cutting the cutting on an angle is also beneficial, for the same reasons. I tend to use the 'angle' method more so than the 'slicing' method. It takes less time, and is easier to do!
7. Planting time! Plant your cutting into a small pot, in well draining soil. I use 50mm tube pots for anything that will fit into it, even Frangipani cuttings. Small pots dry out nice and quick, avoiding rot. Rot is one of the main causes of rooting failure. For the same reason, ensure you are using potting mix which drains freely. Add vermiculite, perlite or sand to your mix if it is not well draining. If you aren't sure, buy some cacti & succulent mix from a nursery, garden centre or hardware. Plant the cutting halfway into the pot. You don't want it moving or wobbling, so fill the pot up with soil, and compress it firmly. Now water it in well to get rid of air bubbles & leave it to be. 
8. The mission continues... After a few weeks (anywhere between 2 and 4, sometimes longer) your cutting will start forming roots, which will eventually show through the bottom of the pot. When this happens, it's time to repot. Repot into 4" pots (don't go much bigger than that, you want to increase the size of the pot slowly to establish good root systems, and avoid problems due to waterlogged soil), but take care to CUT the tube pot away from the roots. Don't just pull them out, as they may still be a little bit fragile. Well, there you have it. Time to go do some cuttings now! Good luck....
Wednesday, July 1
Gifts of Nature - Coconut Juice or Water
Coconut water contains an abundance of natural goodness including growth factors like cytokinins, which are nature's anti-ageing compounds. It has been traditionally consumed around the tropical world for rehydration, refreshment, as a sterile water source, to soothe infants, dissolve kidney stones, kill intestinal worms, facilitate removal of toxins from the blood, boost libido, for healthy skin and hair as well as a laboratory growing medium and an emergency blood plasma substitute. Now, also recognized as high in antioxidants and useful in cholesterol control.
The Coconut has been called "the milk bottle on the doorstep of mankind" ...facilitating the spread of our civilizations from day one!
The Coconut has been called "the milk bottle on the doorstep of mankind" ...facilitating the spread of our civilizations from day one!
A handy little tool is now available to help you open & drink your coconuts, called COCOTAP®, made by Paul Richardson. COCOTAP® makes the most naturally refreshing drink ever, totally accessible. It eliminates the mess of opening coconuts with machetes, is simple, safe and now easier to utilize nature's perfect packaging.
For more information visit COCOTAP®'s website
Cardboard Palm (Zamia furfuracea) Cycad
My favourite cycad!
This one is called 'Cardboard Palm', but it's not an actual palm, it doesn't even really look like one. The Cardboard Palm is part of the Cycad family, and it is native to Mexico.
This one is called 'Cardboard Palm', but it's not an actual palm, it doesn't even really look like one. The Cardboard Palm is part of the Cycad family, and it is native to Mexico.This is my favourite cycad as it has a very tidy growth habit, it doesn't grow much taller than 1m, and only spreads a little, to just under 2m. It is extremely tough, being able to handle drought, heat, frost & salt! This is one of those plants that goes well anywhere, whether it's in sand or clay, cold or hot, as long as it is in a full sun position. It will grow well in coastal areas as well as inland gardens. They do not need any additional watering once they are established in your garden, natural rainfall will do just fine. This cycad stores water in it's trunk, which means it has its own water reserve. Propagation of the Cardboard Palm is usually from seed, although I believe you could seperate the offsets once it starts clumping. I have not tried this as of yet, so I cannot guarantee this would work. Cardboard Palms need a male and a female plant to produce viable see
d, and the difference shows in the cones. I have included a picture of female Cardboard Palm cones on the right hand side. Once the female cone is ripe, it will break and reveal a heap of bright red seeds. The Cardboard Palm produces very interesting cones from a very young age.
d, and the difference shows in the cones. I have included a picture of female Cardboard Palm cones on the right hand side. Once the female cone is ripe, it will break and reveal a heap of bright red seeds. The Cardboard Palm produces very interesting cones from a very young age. I highly recommend the Cardboard Palm (Zamia furfuracea) as an addition to your garden. They will outperform your expectations and survive whatever you throw at them! To purchase these plants, visit Cactus Island Nursery
Written by El - Cactus Island Nursery
Written by El - Cactus Island Nursery
Tuesday, June 30
How to Care for your Mail Order Plants
Purchasing your plants from an online nursery, or via mail order is a very convenient way of gardening! Here's a few important things to help you succesfully grow your new plants.
On arrival
All our plants are sent via express post, to ensure the fastest delivery possible. It is always our aim to have plants in transport as little as possible, and it is very important to unpack your plants as soon as possible when your plants arrive. We soak all plants in Seaweed solution in our nursery before sending to reduce transport stress.
Unpack your plants carefully, and soak them immediately in seaweed solution. (We do not recommend soaking for Dracaena draco, cacti and succulents. Rather just dip them in the seaweed, and plant immediately)
Seaweed solution has many uses as outlined below:
- Seaweed stimulates root development
- Seaweed reduces transplant stress
- Seaweed enhances flowering & fruiting
- Seaweed increases resistance to heat, drought, frost, pests & disease
Due to the fact that Seaweed Solution is not a nitrogen based fertiliser, it is safe to use on all plants. Soak your plants for a few hours or overnight. We do however recommend you do NOT soak succulents, cycads and caudex plants for any longer than 30 minutes. We have various seaweed solutions, including Seasol available for purchase.
Choosing a pot
Once your plants have had a good soak, it is time to choose an appropriate pot size. Choose a pot as small as possible. It is a common misperception to plant plants in a huge pot, thinking plants will grow quicker because they have a bigger pot. The truth in fact is totally the opposite. Plants need oxygen in the soil, and big pots make it harder for soil to dry out. Without drying out, soil becomes logged and oxygen is destroyed. Roots will not develop properly and the plant will stay too wet, being a major cause of root rot, and possibly plant death.
Small seedlings, with a small root system should go in a 50mm tube pot. Small seedlings with a big root system or big taproot, such as most cycads and some palms (common for palms like Triangle Palms, Bismarck Palms, Dypsis Fakey, Latan Palms) could not possible fit into 50mm tubes. These types of plants are potted into tubes called ‘native tubes’ which are very tall, but still only 70mm wide. These native tubes are the pot we use the most in our nursery, they are very handy for a lot of palms and cycads. We can help you get some of these tubes if needed.
Another option would be to use a pot called a ‘SuperSaver’, 4” diameter, but much taller than a standard 4” pot. Bigger plants, or plants with big root systems will need a bigger pot; choose a pot which will fit roots comfortably without squashing, and without excess room. Some plants, such as succulents or cacti, would be good in a terracotta pot. Terracotta is porous (unless it is treated with a waterproofing compound) and will allow these plants to dry out quicker and easier.
Soils and potting mix
Always choose a well draining mix. For potted plants, the easiest (and often the best) soils
are premium potting mixes, available from hardware stores, nurseries & garden centres. Read the back of the bag to ensure it is suitable for your plant, and check whether the potting mix incorporates fertilisers and soil improvers, or whether you will need to add these yourself.
Specific potting mixes, such as ‘cacti and succulent mix’, ‘orchid mix’, or ‘Azalea mix’ are the easiest to use, and these potting mixes ensure you will get the right mix for your plant. It is always a good idea to add some soil improver, such as ‘BioBrew Soil’, which encourages soil activity and insect numbers (such as earthworms), increasing available nutrients & oxygen for the roots.
Things like Seaweed Solution, Dynamic Lifter, Organic Xtra etc. are also excellent to mix in with the soil. Be sure to read the packaging for the right amount of solution or fertiliser.
Some plants, such as Azalea, Gardenia & Camellia, prefer a more acidic soil than other plants. These plants will need a specific potting mix, or you will need to adjust the Ph of the potting mix to suit these plants. Sweet soils can kill these plants, or will impair their growth.
Watering In
It is vital to water your plants in well. If you do none of the other things, please do this one, it is THE most important thing about potted plants. Without proper watering in, the soil or potting mix will have air pockets, causing roots to die back, or die completely. Water in well, then leave to dry out to let the soil create oxygen for the roots, then water regularly to suit the plant.
Planting in the ground
If you are planting straight into the ground, be sure to prepare the planting site well. Dig your hole much bigger than the plant’s root system, and dig through lots of organic matter such as Blood & Bone, Manure, some people even use dog food. If you are lucky enough to have a compost pile, this would be the time to use some! Please do check the Ph of your compost – last time I checked ours the Ph was 3, which is not beneficial at all to any plant! If it is fairly neutral, or slightly acidic, it would be great to dig some through the soil at the bottom of the hole, and the soil which is used for back-filling the hole.
We always soak the hole with water first, to make water penetration easier once the plant is planted. It would depend on your soil too however, as the soil around our nursery is very dry and rocky. It is very important for us to dig a huge hole, and fill it with water first. Plants would have a hard time getting their roots through the soil, at least for a start. If your soil is more of a clay soil though, you would more so build up your soil to form a mound, and you would plant your plants on top of the mound to improve drainage. Clay can be very heavy soil, and retains water a lot, meaning it would get too cloggy for a lot of plants. It's important to determine what type of soil you have before purchasing your plants, and before planting them. Press soil on firmly without being rough, and water in well once again.
Fertilise around the base of the plant, but do keep it at least 10cm away from the base to avoid trunk rot. This is not vital for all plants, but without listing every plant, it's best to be safe than sorry. Mulching is always good in the conditions we’re dealing with in Australia, but it is absolutely necessary in areas of drought, areas on water restrictions, or areas without much natural rainfall. It will keep the soil moist, and directs water to the roots without run off. In hot parts of the country, mulching is necessary to keep soil & roots cool, in cold areas it is used to keep roots warm. It works as a natural insulator, and while the mulch composts, it provides nutrients for the plant as well. Please note that if you would like to fertilise your plants, try and get the fertiliser in under the mulch. It will work much better that way.
Watering
Watering is one of the things most people worry about. If you follow our instructions on pot size above, your plants will be a lot more forgiving than they used to be. All plants prefer a soil which is well draining and free flowing, and pots of the right size will allow the soil to do so. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top inch of soil is dry, in summer this may be every day, in winter this may be no more than once every 2 weeks.
Plants in pots will need to be watered more frequently than plants in the garden. In the nursery, our plants in 50mm tubes are water daily in summer, every 2 days in winter. Due to the pots being so small, overwatering is not an issue. Plants dry out quickly, and quickly establish root systems whilst having adequate watering applied. All 50mm tubes are however under 30% to 50% shade cloth in our nursery, meaning they won't need watering as much as if they were in full sun. We always recommend keeping your plants in small pots out of full, harsh sun until you pot them into at least 100mm pots.
Plants in standard 100mm pots are watered every 2-3 days in summer, once every 4-5 days in winter. Plants in bigger pots generally fend for themselves, but during dry times they get additional watering. Some plants, such as bamboo, some palms and things like Azalea, Monstera, Orchids or Medinilla’s, appreciate being fairly moist at all times, and will grow much quicker when watered regularly. Once they are ready to go into the ground however, most are able to completely look after themselves with just natural rainfall.
When you water, water well. Most plants do not appreciate always being wet and receiving little amounts of water often. It’s best to water well, leave the plant to dry out a bit, and water well again. Some plants that like high humidity are different, they prefer being moist most of the time, and they will also benefit from regular misting to increase humidity.
Many helpful products are available to increase water retention and stop water runoff, such as water crystals and soil wetter.
Position
It is very important to read as much information on the plant you purchased as you can, to learn about what they like and dislike. All plants have different requirements, like people really.
When you receive your plants, you will need to slowly adjust them to the position where they are to grow eventually. If your palm is to grow in full sun, you cannot place it in full sun immediately, especially not with seedlings. Seedlings are best grown in a shady, brightly lit position until they have established themselves in their new pot. Once they have, you can slowly adjust them to full sun. Take them out into the sun for an hour or so a day, and slowly increase until they are completely sun hardy.
Obviously, some plants are not suited to growing in full sun, and these can be established in their pots and planted out immediately afterwards. You will need to think carefully about the position for your plant, make sure you know exactly how big the plant can grow, whether roots are invasive or not, whether it needs shade or full sun, does it need acidic soil, how much water does it need etc.
As you may have recently seen on ‘Better Homes and Gardens’, someone planted a nice little pot plant along a fence, and before they knew it the ‘little pot plant’ was 8m tall and going strong. This was a Ficus, which is known to be a great house plant, but can reach up to 50m tall in the garden! This is just an example, but it really pays to look into it, as removing a tree of that size can cost a lot, and you are left with an empty spot in the garden which may take years to fill.
We do have some plants in our nursery (under 'indoor plants') that are great as indoor plants. Place these plants in a brightly lit position, under a Skylight or close to a window is great.
Check whether the plant can handle air conditioning if your house is air conditioned, and keep it away from draughty winds. Air can be very dry inside, so keep an eye out the plant, water it when needed, and mist it regularly if it likes humidity. You will need to wipe the foliage free of dust every week or so, with a damp cloth. I take my house plants outside regularly for a little TLC, they get a hose off and an application with liquid fertiliser every two weeks. Liquid fertiliser are great for indoor plants, it’s easy to apply and feeds through foliage as well as soil.
On arrival
All our plants are sent via express post, to ensure the fastest delivery possible. It is always our aim to have plants in transport as little as possible, and it is very important to unpack your plants as soon as possible when your plants arrive. We soak all plants in Seaweed solution in our nursery before sending to reduce transport stress.
Unpack your plants carefully, and soak them immediately in seaweed solution. (We do not recommend soaking for Dracaena draco, cacti and succulents. Rather just dip them in the seaweed, and plant immediately)
Seaweed solution has many uses as outlined below:
- Seaweed stimulates root development
- Seaweed reduces transplant stress
- Seaweed enhances flowering & fruiting
- Seaweed increases resistance to heat, drought, frost, pests & disease
Due to the fact that Seaweed Solution is not a nitrogen based fertiliser, it is safe to use on all plants. Soak your plants for a few hours or overnight. We do however recommend you do NOT soak succulents, cycads and caudex plants for any longer than 30 minutes. We have various seaweed solutions, including Seasol available for purchase.
Choosing a pot
Once your plants have had a good soak, it is time to choose an appropriate pot size. Choose a pot as small as possible. It is a common misperception to plant plants in a huge pot, thinking plants will grow quicker because they have a bigger pot. The truth in fact is totally the opposite. Plants need oxygen in the soil, and big pots make it harder for soil to dry out. Without drying out, soil becomes logged and oxygen is destroyed. Roots will not develop properly and the plant will stay too wet, being a major cause of root rot, and possibly plant death.
Small seedlings, with a small root system should go in a 50mm tube pot. Small seedlings with a big root system or big taproot, such as most cycads and some palms (common for palms like Triangle Palms, Bismarck Palms, Dypsis Fakey, Latan Palms) could not possible fit into 50mm tubes. These types of plants are potted into tubes called ‘native tubes’ which are very tall, but still only 70mm wide. These native tubes are the pot we use the most in our nursery, they are very handy for a lot of palms and cycads. We can help you get some of these tubes if needed.
Another option would be to use a pot called a ‘SuperSaver’, 4” diameter, but much taller than a standard 4” pot. Bigger plants, or plants with big root systems will need a bigger pot; choose a pot which will fit roots comfortably without squashing, and without excess room. Some plants, such as succulents or cacti, would be good in a terracotta pot. Terracotta is porous (unless it is treated with a waterproofing compound) and will allow these plants to dry out quicker and easier.
Soils and potting mix
Always choose a well draining mix. For potted plants, the easiest (and often the best) soils
are premium potting mixes, available from hardware stores, nurseries & garden centres. Read the back of the bag to ensure it is suitable for your plant, and check whether the potting mix incorporates fertilisers and soil improvers, or whether you will need to add these yourself.Specific potting mixes, such as ‘cacti and succulent mix’, ‘orchid mix’, or ‘Azalea mix’ are the easiest to use, and these potting mixes ensure you will get the right mix for your plant. It is always a good idea to add some soil improver, such as ‘BioBrew Soil’, which encourages soil activity and insect numbers (such as earthworms), increasing available nutrients & oxygen for the roots.
Things like Seaweed Solution, Dynamic Lifter, Organic Xtra etc. are also excellent to mix in with the soil. Be sure to read the packaging for the right amount of solution or fertiliser.
Some plants, such as Azalea, Gardenia & Camellia, prefer a more acidic soil than other plants. These plants will need a specific potting mix, or you will need to adjust the Ph of the potting mix to suit these plants. Sweet soils can kill these plants, or will impair their growth.
Watering In
It is vital to water your plants in well. If you do none of the other things, please do this one, it is THE most important thing about potted plants. Without proper watering in, the soil or potting mix will have air pockets, causing roots to die back, or die completely. Water in well, then leave to dry out to let the soil create oxygen for the roots, then water regularly to suit the plant.
Planting in the ground
If you are planting straight into the ground, be sure to prepare the planting site well. Dig your hole much bigger than the plant’s root system, and dig through lots of organic matter such as Blood & Bone, Manure, some people even use dog food. If you are lucky enough to have a compost pile, this would be the time to use some! Please do check the Ph of your compost – last time I checked ours the Ph was 3, which is not beneficial at all to any plant! If it is fairly neutral, or slightly acidic, it would be great to dig some through the soil at the bottom of the hole, and the soil which is used for back-filling the hole.
We always soak the hole with water first, to make water penetration easier once the plant is planted. It would depend on your soil too however, as the soil around our nursery is very dry and rocky. It is very important for us to dig a huge hole, and fill it with water first. Plants would have a hard time getting their roots through the soil, at least for a start. If your soil is more of a clay soil though, you would more so build up your soil to form a mound, and you would plant your plants on top of the mound to improve drainage. Clay can be very heavy soil, and retains water a lot, meaning it would get too cloggy for a lot of plants. It's important to determine what type of soil you have before purchasing your plants, and before planting them. Press soil on firmly without being rough, and water in well once again.
Fertilise around the base of the plant, but do keep it at least 10cm away from the base to avoid trunk rot. This is not vital for all plants, but without listing every plant, it's best to be safe than sorry. Mulching is always good in the conditions we’re dealing with in Australia, but it is absolutely necessary in areas of drought, areas on water restrictions, or areas without much natural rainfall. It will keep the soil moist, and directs water to the roots without run off. In hot parts of the country, mulching is necessary to keep soil & roots cool, in cold areas it is used to keep roots warm. It works as a natural insulator, and while the mulch composts, it provides nutrients for the plant as well. Please note that if you would like to fertilise your plants, try and get the fertiliser in under the mulch. It will work much better that way.
Watering
Watering is one of the things most people worry about. If you follow our instructions on pot size above, your plants will be a lot more forgiving than they used to be. All plants prefer a soil which is well draining and free flowing, and pots of the right size will allow the soil to do so. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top inch of soil is dry, in summer this may be every day, in winter this may be no more than once every 2 weeks.
Plants in pots will need to be watered more frequently than plants in the garden. In the nursery, our plants in 50mm tubes are water daily in summer, every 2 days in winter. Due to the pots being so small, overwatering is not an issue. Plants dry out quickly, and quickly establish root systems whilst having adequate watering applied. All 50mm tubes are however under 30% to 50% shade cloth in our nursery, meaning they won't need watering as much as if they were in full sun. We always recommend keeping your plants in small pots out of full, harsh sun until you pot them into at least 100mm pots.
Plants in standard 100mm pots are watered every 2-3 days in summer, once every 4-5 days in winter. Plants in bigger pots generally fend for themselves, but during dry times they get additional watering. Some plants, such as bamboo, some palms and things like Azalea, Monstera, Orchids or Medinilla’s, appreciate being fairly moist at all times, and will grow much quicker when watered regularly. Once they are ready to go into the ground however, most are able to completely look after themselves with just natural rainfall.
When you water, water well. Most plants do not appreciate always being wet and receiving little amounts of water often. It’s best to water well, leave the plant to dry out a bit, and water well again. Some plants that like high humidity are different, they prefer being moist most of the time, and they will also benefit from regular misting to increase humidity.
Many helpful products are available to increase water retention and stop water runoff, such as water crystals and soil wetter.
Position
It is very important to read as much information on the plant you purchased as you can, to learn about what they like and dislike. All plants have different requirements, like people really.
When you receive your plants, you will need to slowly adjust them to the position where they are to grow eventually. If your palm is to grow in full sun, you cannot place it in full sun immediately, especially not with seedlings. Seedlings are best grown in a shady, brightly lit position until they have established themselves in their new pot. Once they have, you can slowly adjust them to full sun. Take them out into the sun for an hour or so a day, and slowly increase until they are completely sun hardy.
Obviously, some plants are not suited to growing in full sun, and these can be established in their pots and planted out immediately afterwards. You will need to think carefully about the position for your plant, make sure you know exactly how big the plant can grow, whether roots are invasive or not, whether it needs shade or full sun, does it need acidic soil, how much water does it need etc.
As you may have recently seen on ‘Better Homes and Gardens’, someone planted a nice little pot plant along a fence, and before they knew it the ‘little pot plant’ was 8m tall and going strong. This was a Ficus, which is known to be a great house plant, but can reach up to 50m tall in the garden! This is just an example, but it really pays to look into it, as removing a tree of that size can cost a lot, and you are left with an empty spot in the garden which may take years to fill.
We do have some plants in our nursery (under 'indoor plants') that are great as indoor plants. Place these plants in a brightly lit position, under a Skylight or close to a window is great.
Check whether the plant can handle air conditioning if your house is air conditioned, and keep it away from draughty winds. Air can be very dry inside, so keep an eye out the plant, water it when needed, and mist it regularly if it likes humidity. You will need to wipe the foliage free of dust every week or so, with a damp cloth. I take my house plants outside regularly for a little TLC, they get a hose off and an application with liquid fertiliser every two weeks. Liquid fertiliser are great for indoor plants, it’s easy to apply and feeds through foliage as well as soil.
If you would like further information please contact us, or take a look at Cactus Island Nurseries Mail Order Plants.
Very special Double-headed Dwarf Coconut
Here's a double headed coconut baby, grown by Roger Goebel up in North Queensland. I could only find information on 1 other double header, in Tonga, and a three-header in Africa. The three-headed palm in Africa is for sale for 1 million dollars - better start saving! Usually, multi headed palms have their branching occur due to insect attacks etc., but this one? Let's hope we will see it develop into a beautiful palm, it may yet become a tourist attraction!Monday, June 29
Soil Improvers, Fertilisers & Fertilising your Plants
Fertilising your plants is necessary for good, healthy growth, but with so many fertilisers on the market it can be pretty confusing to know which to choose. Below I have outlined the essential nutrients plants need to grow, with an overview on organic fertilisers, soil improvers, compost, mulch, manures & chemical fertilisers.
Essential plant nutrients
Every plant needs a number of essential nutrients to grow. Essential nutrients are nutrients that are required to enable a plant to complete their life cycle.
There are 13 essential nutrients, and each has its own critical function. Essential nutrients are divided into macronutrients (plants require a large amount) and micronutrients (plants require in smaller amounts). There are 3 others very important for plant growth, Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen, but these are not considered nutrients.
Macronutrients:
(N) Nitrogen (necessary for plant protein & phosphorus uptake)
(K) Potassium (Increases drought tolerance, transports iron, essential for protein formation, growth & flowering)
(P) Phosphorus (important for plant growth & seed and flower formation, essential for root development, disease resistance & cold tolerance)
(Ca) Calcium (regulates transport of nutrients within the plant & strengthens)
(Mg) Magnesium (essential for photosynthesis & activates plant enzymes needed for growth)
(S) Sulphur (Improves root growth & fruiting, assists growth, increases resistance to cold weather, promotes enzymes & vitamins, essential for protein production)
Micronutrients
(Fe) Iron (Necessary for photo-synthesis)
(Cu) Copper (important for photosynthesis & plant reproduction, helps protein uptake)
(Mn) Manganese (essential for carbohydrate–breakdown and metabolism)
(Zn) Zinc (Transforms carbohydrates, helps with consumption of sugars, regulates plant growth) (B) Boron (Needed for sugar transport & cell division, regulates nutrients, essential for seed & fruit)
(Mo) Molybdenum (helps to make nitrogen available)
(Cl) Chlorine (helps plant metabolism)
Other nutrients: Silicon, cobalt, Vanadium, Selenium, Sodium, Nickel, Aluminium
Most fertilisers are based on an NPK structure (Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium), and include secondary plant nutrients (Calcium, Sulphur, Magnesium) & trace elements. With ‘trace elements’ the micronutrients such as Iron and Copper are meant. On fertiliser packaging, you will find all the percentages of nutrients available in the fertiliser.
It is especially important to look into these plant nutrients if your plants are showing signs of deficiencies or disease.
Organic fertilisers
Organic fertilisers are made from organic materials such as blood, bone, mushroom compost, manures etc. They are derived from plant and animal material. Organic fertilisers are increasing in popularity due to their effectiveness, relative loss cost and for health reasons. These fertilisers are generally very environmentally friendly, and break down slowly so they do not burn plants.
Organic fertilisers do not just feed plants; they are beneficial for soils as well due to increased soil life & insect activity (just have a sniff – you’ll understand why insects are attracted!). Organic fertilisers are available in solid form (such as Organic Xtra, Dynamic Lifter & Gardenia Food) and Liquid Form. Organic fertilisers are generally safe to use on all plants, including natives.
Disadvantages of organic fertilisers also exist. They tend to be very smelly and messy to use. Most organic fertilisers have a pungent smell of manure and some can be overwhelming. Nutrient levels are generally low, and the growth rate achieved by using organic fertilisers does not nearly compare with growth rates on chemical fertilisers.
Large quantities need to be used to feed the plant enough nutrients to grow, and effectiveness highly depends on the micro biotic organisms which break down the organic matter. During cold weather for example, or when soil is too hot or too dry, micro biotic activity is absent, meaning fertiliser is not released. This may be exactly the time when plants need the fertiliser most.
Other beneficial organic products include:
Seaweed Solution
Many seaweed solutions are available, and all have similar ingredients and benefits. Seaweed solution stimulates root development, promotes healthy growth in all plants, reduces transplant stress, enhances flowering & fruiting and increases resistance to heat, drought, frost, pests & disease. Seaweed solution is not a nitrogen based fertiliser, and contains virtually no nitrogen or phosphorus. It is therefore safe to use on all plants including natives and acid-loving plants. Seaweed solution is great for soaking new plants before potting up, and for fortnightly foliar and soil applications on all your plants, in pots & gardens. Seaweed is excellent for use on seedlings. Use some in your compost piles too!
Soil improvers
Soil improvers such as ‘BioBrew Soil’ improve the soil’s natural organic cycle and are rich in beneficial soil biology and plant food. They often contain things like fish emulsions, seaweed, zinc, copper, humic and fulvic acid. Soil improvers are designed to promote insects and soil organisms which help increase the soil’s water holding capacity, increase the conversion of organic matter to active humus, and strengthen plants. Results are improved crops, better fruiting & flowering, increased resistance to disease, and increased frost & drought tolerance.
Manure
Manure has been a widely used fertiliser and soil conditioner for a long time. Various manures are available with different NPK ratings. Approximate ratings are listed below.
Cow manure N 0.57 P 0.23 K 0.62
Horse manure N 0.7 P 0.25 K 0.77
Pig N 0.49 P 0.34 K 0.47
Sheep N 1.44 P 0.5 K 1.21
Rabbit N 2.4 P 1.4 K 0.6
Chicken N 1 P 0.8 K 0.39
Ensure manures are always well rotted before usage!
Other beneficial things are mulch (directs water to the roots of the plant, keeps roots cool in hot weather, keeps roots warm in cold weather, breaks down to provide organic nutrient), compost (always check the Ph of your compost, it could be very low, or high, depending on what items have been added to the compost pile. Ensure a good variety of things is added to the pile including leaves, grass clippings, veggie scraps, newspaper, manure etc. Keep the pile moist to ensure it keeps composting, and regularly feed your compost pile with a Soil Improver such as BioBrew, Blood & Bone and Dynamic Lifter. Mix through regularly) & Potash (Australian soil is naturally low in potassium. Potash is necessary for fruit, flower & veggie growth.)
Chemical fertilisers
Chemical fertilisers or made of inorganic materials. Chemical fertilisers do not depend on micro biotic organisms, and therefore tend to be more reliable and precise. Chemical fertilisers are very affordable due to the fact that very small amounts are needed to feed the plant with the nutrients it needs. These fertilisers generally do not smell and are very easy to use. Chemical fertilisers are available in solid and liquid form.
Liquid fertilisers
Liquid fertilisers mix with water, and are usually applied with a watering can or a spray bottle. They generally feed both foliage & soil, and last around 2 weeks. Liquid fertilisers are very easy to apply and are generally suitable for most plants. Some plants, like Adenium, prefer liquid fertilisers over solids. Many people prefer using liquid fertilisers as it is generally safer to use and less likely to burn plants. It is also easily washed out by flushing the soil repeatedly, if there is evidence of over fertilising. Repeated watering will rinse all traces out of the soil. Fertilisers such as Miracle-Gro & Nitrosol start working within minutes, and both feed leaves & soil. Miracle-Gro also contains a wetting agent which helps the fertiliser stick the foliage, making it a more effective foliar feed, and also aids in the penetration of the soil to ensure nutrients and water reach down to the roots. Soluble fertilisers are very gentle and can be used at any required strength. They are excellent for cacti and succulents at about 1/8 of the usual strength, and foliage plants will greatly benefit from the foliar feed.
Controlled-release fertilisers
Controlled-release fertilisers are generally a long-term fertilising solution. Some can last up to 24 months, which makes it a very easy, convenient way of fertilising. These fertilisers generally come in pellet form, little balls coated in plastic-like material. Controlled release fertiliser often consists of quick-release nitrogen pellets, and slow-release pellets, ensuring the fertiliser starts working immediately, and keeps working over time. Controlled release fertilisers are very cost effective, generally only a teaspoon is needed in a 4” pot (depending on the plant), and nutrients are released slowly. Controlled release fertilisers release their nutrients in tune with the weather; during hot days for example these fertilisers will release more nutrients than cold dark days, providing more nutrients when the plants need it more.
Slow-release fertilisers
Generally the same as controlled-release fertilisers, but slow-release fertilisers do not work in tune with the environment. Nutrients are released at a steady rate, whether it is sunny or not.
For further information please contact Cactus Island Nursery. We have a range of fertilisers and soil improvers for sale via mail order, just contact us for more details.
Essential plant nutrients
Every plant needs a number of essential nutrients to grow. Essential nutrients are nutrients that are required to enable a plant to complete their life cycle.
There are 13 essential nutrients, and each has its own critical function. Essential nutrients are divided into macronutrients (plants require a large amount) and micronutrients (plants require in smaller amounts). There are 3 others very important for plant growth, Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen, but these are not considered nutrients.
Macronutrients:
(N) Nitrogen (necessary for plant protein & phosphorus uptake)
(K) Potassium (Increases drought tolerance, transports iron, essential for protein formation, growth & flowering)
(P) Phosphorus (important for plant growth & seed and flower formation, essential for root development, disease resistance & cold tolerance)
(Ca) Calcium (regulates transport of nutrients within the plant & strengthens)
(Mg) Magnesium (essential for photosynthesis & activates plant enzymes needed for growth)
(S) Sulphur (Improves root growth & fruiting, assists growth, increases resistance to cold weather, promotes enzymes & vitamins, essential for protein production)
Micronutrients
(Fe) Iron (Necessary for photo-synthesis)
(Cu) Copper (important for photosynthesis & plant reproduction, helps protein uptake)
(Mn) Manganese (essential for carbohydrate–breakdown and metabolism)
(Zn) Zinc (Transforms carbohydrates, helps with consumption of sugars, regulates plant growth) (B) Boron (Needed for sugar transport & cell division, regulates nutrients, essential for seed & fruit)
(Mo) Molybdenum (helps to make nitrogen available)
(Cl) Chlorine (helps plant metabolism)
Other nutrients: Silicon, cobalt, Vanadium, Selenium, Sodium, Nickel, Aluminium
Most fertilisers are based on an NPK structure (Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium), and include secondary plant nutrients (Calcium, Sulphur, Magnesium) & trace elements. With ‘trace elements’ the micronutrients such as Iron and Copper are meant. On fertiliser packaging, you will find all the percentages of nutrients available in the fertiliser.
It is especially important to look into these plant nutrients if your plants are showing signs of deficiencies or disease.
Organic fertilisers
Organic fertilisers are made from organic materials such as blood, bone, mushroom compost, manures etc. They are derived from plant and animal material. Organic fertilisers are increasing in popularity due to their effectiveness, relative loss cost and for health reasons. These fertilisers are generally very environmentally friendly, and break down slowly so they do not burn plants.
Organic fertilisers do not just feed plants; they are beneficial for soils as well due to increased soil life & insect activity (just have a sniff – you’ll understand why insects are attracted!). Organic fertilisers are available in solid form (such as Organic Xtra, Dynamic Lifter & Gardenia Food) and Liquid Form. Organic fertilisers are generally safe to use on all plants, including natives.
Disadvantages of organic fertilisers also exist. They tend to be very smelly and messy to use. Most organic fertilisers have a pungent smell of manure and some can be overwhelming. Nutrient levels are generally low, and the growth rate achieved by using organic fertilisers does not nearly compare with growth rates on chemical fertilisers.
Large quantities need to be used to feed the plant enough nutrients to grow, and effectiveness highly depends on the micro biotic organisms which break down the organic matter. During cold weather for example, or when soil is too hot or too dry, micro biotic activity is absent, meaning fertiliser is not released. This may be exactly the time when plants need the fertiliser most.
Other beneficial organic products include:
Seaweed SolutionMany seaweed solutions are available, and all have similar ingredients and benefits. Seaweed solution stimulates root development, promotes healthy growth in all plants, reduces transplant stress, enhances flowering & fruiting and increases resistance to heat, drought, frost, pests & disease. Seaweed solution is not a nitrogen based fertiliser, and contains virtually no nitrogen or phosphorus. It is therefore safe to use on all plants including natives and acid-loving plants. Seaweed solution is great for soaking new plants before potting up, and for fortnightly foliar and soil applications on all your plants, in pots & gardens. Seaweed is excellent for use on seedlings. Use some in your compost piles too!
Soil improvers
Soil improvers such as ‘BioBrew Soil’ improve the soil’s natural organic cycle and are rich in beneficial soil biology and plant food. They often contain things like fish emulsions, seaweed, zinc, copper, humic and fulvic acid. Soil improvers are designed to promote insects and soil organisms which help increase the soil’s water holding capacity, increase the conversion of organic matter to active humus, and strengthen plants. Results are improved crops, better fruiting & flowering, increased resistance to disease, and increased frost & drought tolerance.Manure
Manure has been a widely used fertiliser and soil conditioner for a long time. Various manures are available with different NPK ratings. Approximate ratings are listed below.
Cow manure N 0.57 P 0.23 K 0.62
Horse manure N 0.7 P 0.25 K 0.77
Pig N 0.49 P 0.34 K 0.47
Sheep N 1.44 P 0.5 K 1.21
Rabbit N 2.4 P 1.4 K 0.6
Chicken N 1 P 0.8 K 0.39
Ensure manures are always well rotted before usage!
Other beneficial things are mulch (directs water to the roots of the plant, keeps roots cool in hot weather, keeps roots warm in cold weather, breaks down to provide organic nutrient), compost (always check the Ph of your compost, it could be very low, or high, depending on what items have been added to the compost pile. Ensure a good variety of things is added to the pile including leaves, grass clippings, veggie scraps, newspaper, manure etc. Keep the pile moist to ensure it keeps composting, and regularly feed your compost pile with a Soil Improver such as BioBrew, Blood & Bone and Dynamic Lifter. Mix through regularly) & Potash (Australian soil is naturally low in potassium. Potash is necessary for fruit, flower & veggie growth.)
Chemical fertilisers
Chemical fertilisers or made of inorganic materials. Chemical fertilisers do not depend on micro biotic organisms, and therefore tend to be more reliable and precise. Chemical fertilisers are very affordable due to the fact that very small amounts are needed to feed the plant with the nutrients it needs. These fertilisers generally do not smell and are very easy to use. Chemical fertilisers are available in solid and liquid form.
Liquid fertilisersLiquid fertilisers mix with water, and are usually applied with a watering can or a spray bottle. They generally feed both foliage & soil, and last around 2 weeks. Liquid fertilisers are very easy to apply and are generally suitable for most plants. Some plants, like Adenium, prefer liquid fertilisers over solids. Many people prefer using liquid fertilisers as it is generally safer to use and less likely to burn plants. It is also easily washed out by flushing the soil repeatedly, if there is evidence of over fertilising. Repeated watering will rinse all traces out of the soil. Fertilisers such as Miracle-Gro & Nitrosol start working within minutes, and both feed leaves & soil. Miracle-Gro also contains a wetting agent which helps the fertiliser stick the foliage, making it a more effective foliar feed, and also aids in the penetration of the soil to ensure nutrients and water reach down to the roots. Soluble fertilisers are very gentle and can be used at any required strength. They are excellent for cacti and succulents at about 1/8 of the usual strength, and foliage plants will greatly benefit from the foliar feed.
Controlled-release fertilisersControlled-release fertilisers are generally a long-term fertilising solution. Some can last up to 24 months, which makes it a very easy, convenient way of fertilising. These fertilisers generally come in pellet form, little balls coated in plastic-like material. Controlled release fertiliser often consists of quick-release nitrogen pellets, and slow-release pellets, ensuring the fertiliser starts working immediately, and keeps working over time. Controlled release fertilisers are very cost effective, generally only a teaspoon is needed in a 4” pot (depending on the plant), and nutrients are released slowly. Controlled release fertilisers release their nutrients in tune with the weather; during hot days for example these fertilisers will release more nutrients than cold dark days, providing more nutrients when the plants need it more.
Slow-release fertilisersGenerally the same as controlled-release fertilisers, but slow-release fertilisers do not work in tune with the environment. Nutrients are released at a steady rate, whether it is sunny or not.
For further information please contact Cactus Island Nursery. We have a range of fertilisers and soil improvers for sale via mail order, just contact us for more details.
Licuala naumanii - Fan Palm or PNG Fan Palm
Some information regarding Licuala naumanii (Fan Palm, PNG Fan Palm)This Licuala is rarely seen in cultivation and can be hard to get hold off. It is as beautiful as both the Ruffled Fan Palm (Licuala grandis) and the Australian Fan Palm (Licuala ramsayi), and has similar circular, huge bright green leaves. Licuala naumanii tends to have divided foliage, being the main difference with the Ruffled Fan Palm.
This palm is only small, growing up to around 1.5m tall, and is best suited to warm, tropical conditions. Licuala’s are generally fairly slow growing, but Licuala naumanii is known to be the fastest of the Licuala’s, when grown under the appropriate conditions.
I have found Licuala’s to be very hungry palms (or 'thristy' would be a more correct term), due to their huge green foliage, and I highly recommend using a good quality NPK fertiliser (look for high N (Nitrogen)) to keep them looking shiny and green, and kick start growth. Licuala naumanii is best grown in shady, humid positions (this palm is an understory palm, meaning it always has overhead cover from taller trees) with plenty of water.
If you have further information regarding this palm, please leave a comment!
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Coconut care - Some hints on establishing your palms
A care guide to Mail Order Coconuts - how to look after your palms on arrival
When you receive your Coconuts, they have been in the post for a couple of days so it will pay to get them out of the packaging and into a tub of half strength mix of liquid fertilizer or at least water, in the shade, as quickly as possible. The nuts were growing in filtered sunlight so will handle full sun when settled in but need at least 50% sun for as much of the day as possible.
The nuts are the most advanced that packaging or State requirements allow. They will gain nutritional benefit from attachment to the nut for about 18months and even longer in sub optimal conditions. Coconuts have a fibrous root system. Each root will develop with equal importance both feeding the plant and anchoring it. No tap root develops. The sprouted nuts have roots but in most cases most of the roots are removed for improved health and quarantine reasons. Damaged roots are less useful than new undamaged ones.
In tropical locations the sprouted nut could be planted at its site or potted. In cooler locations it is recommended to plant the nut in a large container of 10 to100 litres for at least a couple of years.
Before sending, the nut has been watered, root pruned and cleaned. New roots are already growing through the nuts husk. In any case newly transplanted nuts will suffer some set back which will be evident in the next two fronds being less vigorous than current fronds. It is important to nurse these new plants to reduce this set back as much as possible.
Coconut palms prefer:
· Warm soil – above 20oC
· Warm air – between 20 and 300C
· High humidity –above 70
· High light levels especially when temperatures are warm
· Free draining soil – no water ponding on surface and good pot drainage
· Regular watering with potable or near potable quality water
· Surface mulching with wood chip or stone
· No weed competition especially grassy weeds
· Freedom of pests like ants (ants farm mealy bug and scale insects) and leaf eating insects
· Adequate levels of fertilizer, particularly nitrogen and trace elements
By meeting these requirements your plants should thrive.
Further notes on growing coconuts are available by email from Roger Goebel.
Current July 2009, Roger Goebel.
When you receive your Coconuts, they have been in the post for a couple of days so it will pay to get them out of the packaging and into a tub of half strength mix of liquid fertilizer or at least water, in the shade, as quickly as possible. The nuts were growing in filtered sunlight so will handle full sun when settled in but need at least 50% sun for as much of the day as possible.The nuts are the most advanced that packaging or State requirements allow. They will gain nutritional benefit from attachment to the nut for about 18months and even longer in sub optimal conditions. Coconuts have a fibrous root system. Each root will develop with equal importance both feeding the plant and anchoring it. No tap root develops. The sprouted nuts have roots but in most cases most of the roots are removed for improved health and quarantine reasons. Damaged roots are less useful than new undamaged ones.
In tropical locations the sprouted nut could be planted at its site or potted. In cooler locations it is recommended to plant the nut in a large container of 10 to100 litres for at least a couple of years.
Before sending, the nut has been watered, root pruned and cleaned. New roots are already growing through the nuts husk. In any case newly transplanted nuts will suffer some set back which will be evident in the next two fronds being less vigorous than current fronds. It is important to nurse these new plants to reduce this set back as much as possible.
Coconut palms prefer:
· Warm soil – above 20oC
· Warm air – between 20 and 300C
· High humidity –above 70
· High light levels especially when temperatures are warm
· Free draining soil – no water ponding on surface and good pot drainage
· Regular watering with potable or near potable quality water
· Surface mulching with wood chip or stone
· No weed competition especially grassy weeds
· Freedom of pests like ants (ants farm mealy bug and scale insects) and leaf eating insects
· Adequate levels of fertilizer, particularly nitrogen and trace elements
By meeting these requirements your plants should thrive.
Further notes on growing coconuts are available by email from Roger Goebel.
Current July 2009, Roger Goebel.
Saturday, June 27
Malaysian Orchid (Medinilla Magnifica) Plant
One of the most spectacular flowering plants available, with exotic pink flower trusses reaching up to 50cm in length, which hang down from the main plant. Leaves are very large, up to 30cm long, glossy dark green and oval.
Medinilla magnifica is an epiphyte (like staghorns, orchids & Bromeliads), and is often found growing in trees in native habitat, where they reach a height of 2m. In cultivation, it will more likely be close to around 1m. Fantastic plant for tropical gardens, or stunning as potted specimen in conservatories down south, or indoors!
Water regularly when compost dries out slightly. Malaysian Orchids benefit from liquid fertilizing every 2-3 weeks, and is best grown in rich, organic, well draining soil. Add lots of peat, vermiculite, humus and mulch to your soil mix. Read & view more at http://cactusisland.com.au/
Lipstick Palm / Red Sealing Wax Palm (Cyrtostachys renda)
Small, Medium & Large Lipstick Palms are now available at National Tropical Plants.
Cyrtostachys renda, originally uploaded by tanetahi.
It wouldn't be right to start this blog with any other plant than the Lipstick Palm. This truly is our favourite! Cyrtostachys renda, originally uploaded by tanetahi.
The Lipstick palm (or Red Sealing Wax Palm) is a stunning feather palm with a brilliantly, almost unbelievably vivid red trunk & crown shaft, found in lowland coastal swamps in SE Asia.
(It is also known as 'Cyrtostachys lakka', which has now been included under 'Cyrtostachys renda'.)
It’s a medium sized, to about 6m, clumping palm. One of the most spectacular and colourful tropical palms and extremely popular as garden and landscaping plant.
Cyrtotachys renda is very cold sensitive and should not be grown in the garden outside the tropics, but I still recommend you give it a go if you aren't in the tropics. Find a nice warm place inside your home, or in a conservatory or glass house. Take it outside in summer & love it like it deserves. It makes for a wonderful and spectacular potted specimen for the house and patio (on warm days). It should not be exposed to temperatures under aprox 10 degrees, preferable above 20 degrees.
In the tropics it’s very easy to grow, provided it gets lots of water and sun/overhead light. Soil should be rich, moist and loamy, and plants should be fed monthly with a tropical plant or palm fertilizer.
Definitely worth the effort and a must for every palm lover/collector! Red Sealing Wax Palm recommendations: I recommend you soak them in some seaweed solution on arrival, for up to a couple of hours right before potting up. Water in with some Fungicide like Fongarid & leave to dry out for a couple of days, then water regularly.
Keep in high humidity in bright light, but no full sun. Add some slow release fertiliser for tropical plants or palms, and keep up regular foliar sprays with seaweed solution.
Small, Medium & Large Lipstick Palms are now available at National Tropical Plants.
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